Category: OWHC 2024

 

Photographs taken July 2024, 35mm film on Yashica FX-3

Staying in the heart of Barcelona’s Gothic Quarter felt like stepping into a vibrant, living museum. The narrow, labyrinthine streets were alive with the hum of life at all hours, drawing both locals and travelers into their tight embrace. Every corner revealed something new, whether it was the scent of fresh food wafting from a small eatery or the flash of ornate street lamps casting golden light over historic facades. The energy was palpable, a flow of people weaving through centuries-old passageways that seemed to echo the stories of the past. The Gothic Quarter is more than just a district; it’s a gateway into the soul of Barcelona.

Barcelona holds countless hidden gems, from the quiet corners of Ciutat Vella to storied landmarks like the Temple d’August and the city archives. Nestled in this part of the city, the Temple d’August, a remnant of ancient Roman times, stands as a stoic witness to Barcelona’s diverse historical layers. Nearby, the Barcelona city archives store centuries of documentation, preserving the city’s narrative, piece by piece. Walking through these spaces, one can feel the weight of history juxtaposed against the dynamic, modern pace of the city. These relics are cherished by locals and act as subtle reminders of Barcelona’s commitment to preserving its heritage, even as the city races forward.

Exploring local art and language, you quickly realize the fervor with which Barcelonans celebrate Catalan culture. Catalan isn’t just spoken in conversations at markets or cafes; it’s breathed into public spaces, showcased in murals, and honored through local events. Artists, whether through street art or formal galleries, weave the essence of Catalonia into their work, reflecting pride in a unique identity distinct from the rest of Spain. This deep connection to Catalan culture is pervasive, and you feel it in the rhythm of everyday life, from the conversations echoing in the narrow alleys to the art that covers the walls. There’s a sense of respect here, a determination to uphold this identity against the tides of change.

The majesty of La Sagrada Família rises above the city like a surreal sentinel, its intricate spires and organic shapes a testament to Gaudí’s unmatched vision. This unfinished masterpiece captures a peculiar beauty, merging nature with spiritual reverence in stone and color. Standing in its shadow, it’s easy to understand why this structure has captured the world’s imagination. Even as it remains under construction, La Sagrada Família continues to inspire awe, a perpetual work in progress that speaks to the patience and pride of the Catalan people.

Barcelona offers peaceful retreats, too, like Parc de la Ciutadella. This lush oasis, tucked away in the city, is a sanctuary where locals come to relax, and musicians often fill the air with melodies, creating a soundtrack that perfectly matches the scenery. Children play by the fountains, couples picnic under sprawling trees, and friends gather to escape the urban rush. The park’s beauty lies in its simplicity, a patch of calm amid the city’s energy, where the pace slows down and the worries of the day seem to drift away.

One of our most memorable stops was the Hospital de Sant Pau, a remarkable example of Catalan Modernism designed by the visionary architect Lluís Domènech i Montaner. We arrived after a leisurely morning wandering through the La Gràcia neighborhood, which retains a charm distinct from Barcelona’s more bustling areas. As we approached the hospital, its elaborate design became visible—ornate mosaics, brightly colored ceramic tiles, and sculpted facades that seemed more like art than architecture. Originally founded in 1342, the hospital is one of the oldest in the world, later renovated between 1902 and 1930 to embrace an Art Nouveau aesthetic that feels both grand and intimate. Today, the complex serves as a cultural and research center, its spaces alive with artistic legacy. A pavilion displayed haunting images of the hospital’s final days as a working medical facility, nurses clad in Nike sneakers, early Nokia phones in hand—a fascinating juxtaposition of history and modernity within this hallowed Art Nouveau space. The hospital’s blend of healing, beauty, and architectural mastery is a profound reminder of the value placed on aesthetic spaces within functional buildings, a concept the Catalans champion in ways few other cultures do.

Barcelona’s food culture is as much a celebration of tradition as it is of flavor. Casa Alfonso, a restaurant that has been serving locals since 1934, encapsulates this perfectly. The air inside is thick with the aroma of garlic, jamón, and smoked meats. We quickly found a small nook by the door, nestled under shelves stacked with vintage bottles of olive oil. Deep red walls and the clinking of glasses set a warm, intimate ambiance. Plates of chorizo, anchovies, and glistening cured meats arrived in quick succession, each bite bursting with rich, savory flavors. This is the kind of place where you squeeze your way to the bar, order a glass of vermouth, and settle in to savor every bite. For dessert, the crema catalana arrived—a perfectly caramelized crust that cracked to reveal a smooth, citrusy custard, the ideal ending to a meal steeped in tradition and hospitality.

In the quieter La Gràcia neighborhood, we encountered another facet of Barcelona’s character. Here, the walls are sometimes emblazoned with the phrase “TOURIST GO HOME,” yet the bakeries still offer a warm welcome. The scent of freshly baked bread pulled us in from the street, and we found baguettes with a crisp, golden crust, while ensaimadas—soft, indulgent pastries—tempted from the shelves. Each bite reminded us of the care and tradition infused into Catalan baking. La Gràcia felt like a hidden gem, a place where the city’s soul can still be found away from the busier tourist zones.

Our journey to Tarragona began with a packed train ride down the coast from Barcelona. The train was filled with a mix of tourists and locals, all heading toward the seaside. As we rode along, we enjoyed the views of the Mediterranean Sea on one side and the hills on the other, despite the 75 minutes standing on the carriage. 

Arriving in Tarragona, we immediately headed in to the old town to see the city’s rich history and Roman heritage, one of the main reasons for our trip. The Roman ruins here are some of the best-preserved in Spain, and one ticket gets you into all the ruins (albeit not the cathedral as we found out). Our first stop was the impressive Roman amphitheater, which sits right on the edge of the sea, with the stunning blue waters of the Mediterranean providing a dramatic backdrop. The amphitheater is incredibly well-preserved and you are permitted to visit all of it. From there, we wandered over to the Roman Circus, another incredible site where chariot races were once held. The scale of the Circus is huge, and it’s fascinating to see how much of the structure has survived through the centuries. The site also offers fantastic views of the city and coastline, making it a perfect spot to pause and take in the scenery. This particular day was about 33 degrees, so we didn’t pause for too long and headed to find some much needed shade (a constant theme of our travels I’m sure you may note). While seeking this out we had a chance to chat with some friendly locals. They spoke enthusiastically about Tarragona’s history and its growing popularity as a tourist destination. They were proud of their city’s heritage and were happy to see more people coming to appreciate its unique blend of ancient history and coastal beauty but struggled with the new businesses that had taken to serving tourist tat along their high streets.  Tarragona had no music playing anywhere as such, but this was a welcome break for us. The streets were hushed and quiet, befitting of a basilica town. I found myself maintaining a lower volume, and keeping to the shaded side of the street. This quiet contrasted with the bustle of Barcelona, and I didn’t mind it, it reminded me of home. The idea of accumulating music on this trip had now been muddled in with noticing sounds on a more macro scale. The absence of sound is just as loud as a heavy metal band. 

 

We decided to relax in one of the bustling squares, where we enjoyed a few cold beers (Mahou I love you). The square was lively with locals and tourists alike, all enjoying the warm weather and laid-back atmosphere. The cool drinks and lively chatter around us provided the perfect break before our next destination. Later in the afternoon, we hopped back on the train and headed to the seaside town of Sitges. By the time we arrived, the day had grown even hotter, and we couldn’t resist heading straight to the beach. We ended up wandering to the northern side of the beach, finding an alcove where I believe they were dredging the sand out of the bay. This created a huge smell of fish in the air. We spent the rest of the day swimming and soaking up the sun. The lively, relaxed atmosphere of Sitges was the perfect contrast to the historic charm of Tarragona, and there was lots of european pop music coming out of rival speakers from bars straddling the beach. This battle for superiority reflected the growing issue this area has with tourists (of which we were a part of). We ended the day heading back to Barcelona, ready for our next trip onwards.