Amsterdam, Netherlands

Day 1 – 10/09/2024

Unfortunately, our first day in Amsterdam was only a short evening (we arrived at 8 pm), as we spent the day travelling from Cologne, Germany to the Netherlands on a 5-hour bus ride. As we came from Germany, we got to see quite a bit of the Dutch countryside (under the pelting of rain, typical) as we drove from the eastern part of the country to just a bit inland of the North sea coastline.

We arrived at the Amsterdam Sloterdijk Station in the northwestern part of the city, where we then jumped onto the metro to get us to our home for the next 5 days, which was a hostel located in the Noorderpark neighbourhood. Just a little bit outside of the historical center of Amsterdam, across the River IJ, the northern neighbourhood had a residential feel with masonry townhouses, some larger apartment complexes and small shops. Our hostel located right at the heart, being a rehabilitated church with a restaurant, bunks and full private rooms for the hostel residents, a library, and seating/working areas littered throughout. Staying outside the main urban center gave us a chance to see another part of the city, which we would have never explored originally.

Day 2 – 11/09/2024

Our first proper day in Amsterdam! As we headed straight to our hostel the night before this was our first chance at seeing the city in its full glory, arriving at the historic center’s main station called “Amsterdam Central”. Walking out from the north side of the station we got an amazing view of the IJ river, and the massive glass canopy stretching across the entirety of the station. Built in the late 20th century, the station’s glass roof stands as a great example of engineering with an expansive roof structure covering part of the internal station and exterior path, and is an iconic historical landmark of the city. Exiting through the south side of the station we got a view of the infamous canals, but also the front facade of the station constructed in the late 19th century, featuring gothic and renaissance revival styles both within and along the masonry facade, and using 8687 wooden piles for its foundation!

We didn’t have much of plan for our first day but to explore Amsterdam-Centrum (inner most borough of the city) and the famous UNESCO designated world heritage canals from the 17th century. The construction of these canals was the largest large-scale town planning project of its time that created a beautiful city design and landscape.

The city felt pretty chaotic walking through with bikers, cars, trams, and pedestrians, we felt like we had to turn our heads every which way and make sure we wouldn’t get decked by a bike. As someone visiting the city it was difficult to get with the flow of all the traffic, but its great to see biking prioritized in the city’s urban planning.

Some of our highlights of the day included of course the canals, it felt never ending walking through the city. We both loved “Miffy” (the stuffed bunny, originally from the Netherlands and around every corner and shop). And the tiny one person cars! Other highlights included the row apartments, the integrated nature along the streets with the massive trees, and people sitting along the canals providing some small peaceful pockets in the busy city.

Day 3 – 12/09/2024

For our second full day, we spent it visiting some main landmarks, doing some thrifting, and traversing through the city and it’s canals. We left our church turned hostel, the Bunk, exploring around our neighbourhood, Noord. There were some lovely parks and courtyards within the winding masonry townhouses of the neighbourhood, providing some green spaces for the residents. We also dropped off a load of laundry at a laundromat, then made our way into the city!

First we stopped at the ‘Rijksmuseum’ which opened in 1885, and is the national museum of the Netherlands dedicated to Dutch arts and history. We walked around the exterior, under the main passage, and explored the gardens. Within the passage – the tunnel space that runs through the ground level of the structure – was built with vaults. The decorated metal tie-rods that support the arches were quite outstanding, as typically metal tie rods are quite small, trying to appear invisible when spanning an arch.

We then tried getting tickets for the Van Gogh museum, which is right by the Arts museum, but realized we had to get tickets in advance. We compromised with Van Gogh themed ‘Miffy’ crochet keychains, but we were definitely a bit disappointed we didn’t get to visit. We then walked through the canals and explored the many thrift and stationary stores, and some quirky stores as well in the city. While also stopping for some coffee/hot chocolate and snacks along the way.

  

We also stopped at the “The Begijnhof”, which we also visited a similar one in Burges, but was intended as something closer to a nunnery or dedicated residential courtyard for women. Men were not allowed within the courtyard and the women would work together to create a self-sufficient community as a group dating back to the 14th century.

We passed by the Zuiderkerk, also known as the “southern church”, which is a 17th-century (as shown by the 1614 on the clock tower) protestant church in the Nieuwmarkt area. We didn’t need directions making our way to this church as it stood out along the rooflines of the city.

We returned to our neighbourhood, visiting a playground, while we waited for our laundry. Then headed home after stopping by and petting each cat that we passed, and had an evening in working on our travel journals in the beautiful library of our hostel. The hostel in which we stayed was an adaptive reuse project of the St. Rita Church, which was originally built in the 1920s. It was cool to see how they transformed a church into such a vibrant and active space that holds a hostel, restaurant, library, and recording studio.

Day 4 – 13/09/2024

Our final full day in Amsterdam, we again visited some important landmarks and tried to explore some more unknown neighborhoods of the city. But first, to get to the metro station that takes us into the city we walked along a small section of the canal within our neighbourhood.

Once in the city our first stop was the Anne Frank House. It was surreal to see the house that holds such a rich history and impactful story in person.

Nearby was the “Westerkerk” church, which was quite simplistic on the inside with painted white walls and grayish-brown ceilings, and minimal ornamentation with gold detailing. The church was built between 1619-1631, and is the largest church in Amsterdam. The tower was completed 7 years (1638) after the initial construction and stands at 85m tall, towering over the city. The renaissance style of the church meant that, in contrast to the gothic arches we often saw during our trip, renaissance architecture commonly used semi-circle arches. That was seen through the arched windows and the barrel vault ceilings. We were lucky when we visited the church with beautiful light streaming in from the many windows, and a very small orchestra practicing under the organ.

We then headed to a boat canal tour starting near central station and taking us through the historic center by waterway. We learned about the history of the city, it’s buildings and of course the canals! We also enjoyed some Dutch wine and cheese on the side. An interesting fact from our tour: The widths of building facades vary greatly depending on which neighbourhood your passing through in the city. This is due to a 16th century law in which the authorities imposed a building tax based on the width of a property’s canal frontage. This means that you can tell that the wider building fronts were owned and built by the wealthier residents of the city.

We then walked around the northwestern part of the city, enjoying our last meal at “Blin Queen”, with some pancakes. Met a few dogs, including a wiener dog whose owner needed us to watch his bike for 2 minutes while he ran inside a store, and cute dog in a raincoat. Found a 1€ bathroom within a nail salon with the nicest ladies working there, it was a life saver. Passed by another famous church called the Zuiderkerk (again!). We also passed through a large section of Chinatown, going into quite a few shops.

We couldn’t help but notice a common quirk about buildings in Amsterdam being that many buildings appear to be slanted, or settling on one side, but remain standing! This is due to the fact that their foundations were built on wooden piles that have since experienced or are currently experiencing deterioration. This can cause differential settlement where the buildings begin to crack and tilt in funky ways.

We returned back to our hostel within the Noord neighborhood leaving from the Amsterdam Central station, passing by our usual cats, and enjoying the last fall evening in the quaint neighborhood. It felt like the perfect end to our stay in Amsterdam, and great way to end our trip!

Day 5 – 14/09/2024

This was the last official day of our trip where we parted ways, and was the official close to our three weeks of travel in Northwestern Europe! Liz returning back to Fredericton, Canada and Kate heading to Kortrijk, Belgium to visit a close friend.

Elizabeth: “My last day in Europe. I’ve never had an experience like this before. I had the opportunity to explore so many wonderful and historically rich cities. I’ve learned so much about heritage conservation from these travels and gained an even deeper appreciation for heritage preservation.”

Kate: “This trip was absolutely amazing! Although I’ve been in Europe for grad school this past year, getting the opportunity to truly travel, exploring new cities and countries the past three weeks was something else. Having a great travel buddy, and supportive team at OWHC truly made the trip something I won’t forget.”

We want to thank @ovpm_owhc_ocpm for this wonderful opportunity to explore Northwestern Europe, and their helpful and kind team: @moni_loves_heritage and @_f.forster! Words cannot express our gratitude!

Stay tuned for our creative output that OWHC will be presenting on their online collection and exhibition!

You can read our more detailed travels and discussion in our Instagram posts here!

https://www.instagram.com/the_late_heritage_travels?utm_source=ig_web_button_share_sheet&igsh=ZDNlZDc0MzIxNw==

Thank you for the amazing trip.

 

Brugge, Belgium

Day 1 – 04/09/2024

Our first day in Brugge was actually a travel day moving from the capital city of Brussels, to the smaller quaint city for our second stop.  We travelled by train through Belgium’s National Railway getting the opportunity to see the countryside, waterways, other small towns, and some bigger cities including Ghent. We were both surprised by the number of bike racks and paths at every train station (the sheer number was overwhelming as you would never see anything like this in Canada).

With our arrival in Brugge we were both shocked to see such unity and strong character from the city with all the wonderfully preserved buildings down every street and around every corner. We also both enjoyed the energy of the city compared to Brussels. The historical center of Brugge having a much stronger sense of character demonstrating a lack of modern additions/interventions, winding historical canals, and a larger historical center that expands to the outer residential areas. Giving many reasons for its designation as a World Heritage City by UNESCO for its Outstanding Universal Value as a maintained medieval historical settlement, original Gothic constructions, and its historical and current role as a commercial and cultural capital.

Some of highlights of the city from our first walkthrough of the historic center;

The differing gable roof styles throughout the city, varying from crow-stepped to sprout, or a simple sloped roof, and anything in between. Wall ties, wall ties, wall ties! Almost every masonry building in Brugge has wall ties, which provide connections between orthogonal masonry walls, and allow for the transfer of lateral loads.

Ezelpoort (Also known as Donkey’s Gate) it is one of 4 remaining gates of Brugge’s second city wall built in 1297. The gate has undergone multiple restorations and alterations throughout the centuries. This was also connected to beautiful part of the Canal.

Day 2 – 05/09/2024

Our second day in Brugge, we decided to explore the city by visiting some of its main historical landmarks by foot, including Brugge’s Belfry, the St. Savior’s Cathedral and walking along the canals (lots of walking today). We started the day climbing up the spiral staircase – a total of 366 steps – to the top of the Brugge Belfry. We got an amazing view of the city, and even got to see the mechanisms which run and chime the bells (super loud) which ring every 15 minutes. It was also interesting to see the historic timber joints and metal keys holding the structural timber system together of the tower.

We also visited St. Savior’s Cathedral, which is one of the three structures that dominate Brugge’s skyline.  The apse of the cathedral and how gorgeous the ribbed vaults and stained-glass windows were quite outstanding along with the integration of the structural tie rods. We were very lucky this evening getting some sun. The canals, and parts of the city really light up in a way you can’t see with an overcast sky. We loved all the wildlife and plants in the canals, especially the swans.

 

Day 3 – 06/09/2024

We followed a similar plan to the previous day exploring the historical city center, visiting churches, shops and eating some typical Belgian food throughout the city! Our first stop was again to St. Savior’s Cathedral (also known as Sint-Salvatorskathedraal). We only had a short look the previous day as we visited around closing time, and got to properly see the interior of the structure. We followed up with some hot chocolate at Olivier’s, which was absolutely delicious, but also left us feeling a little chocolated out.

Next, we went to the Basilica of the Holy Blood, which looks small from the outside, but holds two floors consisting of a lower and upper chapel built between 1134 and 1157. We were both genuinely surprised by the upper chapel, as we thought the lower chapel was the only section of the basilica. The contrast between the two is quite jarring, due to their size, and the feeling you get walking within the two spaces. One being small, dark and simple, although providing a cozy, protected feeling with candles lit throughout, while the upper chapel being quite grand with lots of natural light, and much more architectural detailing and ornamentation.

We spent the rest of our afternoon walking through the canals and the city. We also visited the torture museum, which definitely left us with a sick stomach after (the building itself is actually one of Europe’s oldest prisons).

Day 4 – 07/09/2024

For our last day in Brugge we spent our time around the outer edges of the historical city center, walking through more residential areas and parks with the goal of reaching Minnewaterpark. This large park is located in the south part of the city and holds open green space for residents to relax, for sitting in the grass, or exploring the gardens. A funny highlight were the green metal chairs that could be moved around the park, allowing visitors to sit wherever they like. Within the park there was also the Castle Della Faille, a 19th-century neo-gothic castle, which was rehabilitated into a restaurant, Kasteel Minnewater!

Following, we then visited Brugge’s Beguinage, which is listed as a UNESCO world heritage site which is known as “Ten Wijngaarde”. This closed community space was where unmarried women lived and supported each other’s spiritual and material needs. This movement began in Brugge around the 13th century, and the community is still inhabited to this day! The site was very serene!

We spent the remaining part of the day exploring the shopping district, and other areas in the historical center walking the cobblestone streets, and enjoying our last evening in this amazing Belgian city.

Next Stop: Amsterdam, Netherlands

You can read our more detailed travels and discussion in our Instagram posts here!

https://www.instagram.com/the_late_heritage_travels?utm_source=ig_web_button_share_sheet&igsh=ZDNlZDc0MzIxNw==

Brussels, Belgium

Day 1 – 01/09/24

Our first day in Brussels started with an early arrival by plane after our visit to Rome, and a relaxed evening stroll through the city after checking into our hostel. We were both pleasantly surprised to see a different city vibe compared to our previous stop with: a very walkable and transit-friendly city, the tight cobble stoned streets integrated with bike lanes, the brick façade architecture (merging historic designs with modern lifestyles), and the calm energy of both the people and urban landscape of the capital of Belgium. We visited the Grand Place, a recognized World Heritage Site by UNESCO, and were immediately amazed by the variety of architectural styles and exceptionally designed and conserved buildings. A few notable favorites we saw of the UNESCO site: Brussels Town Hall with a 15th  century Gothic bell tower, gorgeous 17th century baroque-styled houses with pure gold decorative accents, and the King’s House built in a Gothic Revival style. We also noted the crow-stepped gable roof design, an architectural feature common in northern Europe throughout the city, and the square itself.

    

Day 2 – 02/09/24

Our second day in Brussels we dove into exploring the city, traversing the main historic centre by foot, and visiting both modern and historic structures. On our way we noticed a significant amount of façadism – a conservation intervention where only the façade of a building is preserved, and a new structure and/or interior is constructed. We stopped by La Bellone, an example of facadism, where the 17th-century baroque style house was converted into an event space cleverly preserving the facade and integrating modern architecture. Throughout the day we visited many cathedrals and churches, in varying degrees of structural condition. We enjoyed spotting the structural interventions including; metal tie-rods supporting arches, structural health monitoring systems, through-wall ties, and masonry repointing, all in place to ensure these beautiful structures remain standing for generations to come!

Day 3 – 03/09/24

Our last day in Brussels was wrapped up perfectly with a chance to speak with Paula Cordeiro, an architect and the site manager of UNESCO World Heritage site: the Grand-Place, and Florence Papazoglakis, a fellow architectural conservator of the Grand Place and for heritage buildings in the city. We had a wonderful time discussing and learning more about heritage conservation and site management. We are grateful to have been able to speak with them and be further inspired to grow in our careers!

Paula and Florence kindly guided us through Grand Place district, the surrounding buffer zone of the UNESCO site, and a personal tour of the Brussels Town Hall, which included climbing up the bell tower. The view from the top of the tower was breathtaking! Paula and Florence, both heavily involved in the site management of the Grand Place, had mentioned the districts struggle with vacancy issues in the city centre, specifically within the upper floors of townhouses. Many building owners solely use the main ground floor, as maintaining the lower floor for businesses is sufficient. As it is the main city centre, it seems a shame that residents do not get the opportunity to live in their city’s historical centre.

Next Stop: Brugge, Belgium

Brussels was an amazing experience and a perfect way to introduce ourselves to Belgium! We are even more excited to go explore Brugge!!!

You can read our more detailed travels and discussion in our Instagram posts here!

https://www.instagram.com/the_late_heritage_travels?utm_source=ig_web_button_share_sheet&igsh=ZDNlZDc0MzIxNw==