The beguinage of Bruges and its water moat

Very typical for the beguinage in Bruges is the water moat in front of the surrounding wall. So you can just enter when you walk over a bridge.

What I liked very much in the beguinage of Bruges is the very small inner courtyard between two houses – because there are interesting information boards:

Tine De Moor said: “The beguinages may have offered women in the low countries safety and security in the case they chose  to remain single.”

Walter Simons said: “Beguinages indeed proved to be powerful devices to attract young women from the countryside eager to make a living in the city but in need of support and protection, as medieval cities were dangerous places for them.”

Brugge, Belgium

Day 1 – 04/09/2024

Our first day in Brugge was actually a travel day moving from the capital city of Brussels, to the smaller quaint city for our second stop.  We travelled by train through Belgium’s National Railway getting the opportunity to see the countryside, waterways, other small towns, and some bigger cities including Ghent. We were both surprised by the number of bike racks and paths at every train station (the sheer number was overwhelming as you would never see anything like this in Canada).

With our arrival in Brugge we were both shocked to see such unity and strong character from the city with all the wonderfully preserved buildings down every street and around every corner. We also both enjoyed the energy of the city compared to Brussels. The historical center of Brugge having a much stronger sense of character demonstrating a lack of modern additions/interventions, winding historical canals, and a larger historical center that expands to the outer residential areas. Giving many reasons for its designation as a World Heritage City by UNESCO for its Outstanding Universal Value as a maintained medieval historical settlement, original Gothic constructions, and its historical and current role as a commercial and cultural capital.

Some of highlights of the city from our first walkthrough of the historic center;

The differing gable roof styles throughout the city, varying from crow-stepped to sprout, or a simple sloped roof, and anything in between. Wall ties, wall ties, wall ties! Almost every masonry building in Brugge has wall ties, which provide connections between orthogonal masonry walls, and allow for the transfer of lateral loads.

Ezelpoort (Also known as Donkey’s Gate) it is one of 4 remaining gates of Brugge’s second city wall built in 1297. The gate has undergone multiple restorations and alterations throughout the centuries. This was also connected to beautiful part of the Canal.

Day 2 – 05/09/2024

Our second day in Brugge, we decided to explore the city by visiting some of its main historical landmarks by foot, including Brugge’s Belfry, the St. Savior’s Cathedral and walking along the canals (lots of walking today). We started the day climbing up the spiral staircase – a total of 366 steps – to the top of the Brugge Belfry. We got an amazing view of the city, and even got to see the mechanisms which run and chime the bells (super loud) which ring every 15 minutes. It was also interesting to see the historic timber joints and metal keys holding the structural timber system together of the tower.

We also visited St. Savior’s Cathedral, which is one of the three structures that dominate Brugge’s skyline.  The apse of the cathedral and how gorgeous the ribbed vaults and stained-glass windows were quite outstanding along with the integration of the structural tie rods. We were very lucky this evening getting some sun. The canals, and parts of the city really light up in a way you can’t see with an overcast sky. We loved all the wildlife and plants in the canals, especially the swans.

 

Day 3 – 06/09/2024

We followed a similar plan to the previous day exploring the historical city center, visiting churches, shops and eating some typical Belgian food throughout the city! Our first stop was again to St. Savior’s Cathedral (also known as Sint-Salvatorskathedraal). We only had a short look the previous day as we visited around closing time, and got to properly see the interior of the structure. We followed up with some hot chocolate at Olivier’s, which was absolutely delicious, but also left us feeling a little chocolated out.

Next, we went to the Basilica of the Holy Blood, which looks small from the outside, but holds two floors consisting of a lower and upper chapel built between 1134 and 1157. We were both genuinely surprised by the upper chapel, as we thought the lower chapel was the only section of the basilica. The contrast between the two is quite jarring, due to their size, and the feeling you get walking within the two spaces. One being small, dark and simple, although providing a cozy, protected feeling with candles lit throughout, while the upper chapel being quite grand with lots of natural light, and much more architectural detailing and ornamentation.

We spent the rest of our afternoon walking through the canals and the city. We also visited the torture museum, which definitely left us with a sick stomach after (the building itself is actually one of Europe’s oldest prisons).

Day 4 – 07/09/2024

For our last day in Brugge we spent our time around the outer edges of the historical city center, walking through more residential areas and parks with the goal of reaching Minnewaterpark. This large park is located in the south part of the city and holds open green space for residents to relax, for sitting in the grass, or exploring the gardens. A funny highlight were the green metal chairs that could be moved around the park, allowing visitors to sit wherever they like. Within the park there was also the Castle Della Faille, a 19th-century neo-gothic castle, which was rehabilitated into a restaurant, Kasteel Minnewater!

Following, we then visited Brugge’s Beguinage, which is listed as a UNESCO world heritage site which is known as “Ten Wijngaarde”. This closed community space was where unmarried women lived and supported each other’s spiritual and material needs. This movement began in Brugge around the 13th century, and the community is still inhabited to this day! The site was very serene!

We spent the remaining part of the day exploring the shopping district, and other areas in the historical center walking the cobblestone streets, and enjoying our last evening in this amazing Belgian city.

Next Stop: Amsterdam, Netherlands

You can read our more detailed travels and discussion in our Instagram posts here!

https://www.instagram.com/the_late_heritage_travels?utm_source=ig_web_button_share_sheet&igsh=ZDNlZDc0MzIxNw==

porto – modern architecture

on my last day in porto, i had something special planned: modern architecture. during my studies, portuguese modern architecture is always a key topic—this was my chance to finally experience it up close. on the itinerary: the faculty of architecture by álvaro siza and the casa da música by rem koolhaas. both buildings left a lasting impression on me.

casa da música

casa da musica I

 

the casa da música in porto is a true magnet for anyone who loves modern architecture and culture. even from the outside, the building impresses with its unique form, standing like a giant, geometric monolith in the heart of porto—a creation of dutch star architect rem koolhaas.

 

casa da musica II

 

since 2005, this masterpiece has caught the eye, bringing an avant-garde flair to the historic city. the interior of the casa da música is as fascinating as its facade. visitors find spacious, light-filled rooms and bold architectural details that create an almost magical atmosphere. the main concert hall, the “sala suggia,” is renowned for its outstanding acoustics, letting music seem to float through the air—a memorable experience. from classical to jazz to experimental music, the casa da música offers a wide range of concerts, making it a lively destination for music lovers of all kinds.

 

casa da musica III

 

faculdade de arquitetura

the faculty of architecture in porto, or the “faculdade de arquitetura da universidade do porto,” is a gem of modern portuguese architecture that attracts enthusiasts from around the world. designed by álvaro siza, one of portugal’s most renowned architects and a pritzker prize winner, the building is considered a postwar architectural masterpiece. its design is a tribute to clean lines and the play of light and shadow, exemplifying how architecture can blend seamlessly into its natural surroundings. the faculty sits along the douro river, offering breathtaking views from almost every corner of the building—a constant inspiration for those who study or teach here.

 

faculdade de arquitetura I

 

the buildings are crafted in white concrete, which takes on a nearly magical quality in the portuguese sunlight, intensifying the interplay with the shadows cast by each structure. siza didn’t just create a campus here; he crafted a dynamic environment that encourages experimentation and reflection, which makes this place so special. the teaching approach is also highly regarded, as architecture is taught here not merely as a technical discipline, but as an art form that positively impacts people’s lives. for architecture fans, visiting the faculty is an absolute must. even simply wandering through the serene, geometrically arranged courtyards or gazing out the large windows onto the river gives one the feeling of being in a place that invites creativity and awe.

 

faculdade de arquitetura II

 

another element

that made porto so special for me: the street musicians.

music I

 

at any time of day or night, you could find street musicians on nearly every corner, adding a musical layer to the beautiful memories i have of porto. their melodies drifted through the streets, giving the city an extra touch of warmth and life, making each moment feel like part of a personal soundtrack that i’ll carry with me.

 

music II

 

to be continued…

Luxembourg

We arrived early in Luxembourg after a short Ryanair flight from Porto, where we joined a crowd of returning Luxembourg nationals and Portuguese residents. Over the past several decades, Luxembourg has seen significant immigration from Portugal, and today, around 16% of Luxembourg’s residents are Portuguese—a blend that gives the city a uniquely multicultural feel. It was barely morning as we made our way through the terminal, and soon we found ourselves in the cool dawn air of Luxembourg City, ready to explore.

The city was quiet, with only the hum of trams and the sound of early commuters setting out for the day. We wandered briefly, looking for a place to grab coffee before we dove in deeper. Our search led us to the business district, where we found a café filled with mostly early risers, suited up and glued to their phones. The tall, modern office buildings stood in contrast to the old stone structures we’d soon explore, and the faint sounds of conversation in French, German, and Luxembourgish reminded us how many cultures intersect in this small city. After a quick espresso, we were ready to get moving, so we rented e-bikes to navigate Luxembourg’s winding streets and leafy parks.

Riding through the city, we admired the organized streets and clean, minimalist architecture, dotted with green spaces and bordered by the old city walls. The walls, which are a UNESCO World Heritage site, were incredible to see up close. With the e-bikes, we could move easily along the narrow lanes and take in the sweeping views of the valleys below. The fortifications, built hundreds of years ago, were shaded with thick stone, and we took in their muted greys and faded beige hues, blending into the cityscape. The Alzette River glistened far below, winding quietly through the city.

By the time we needed a break, the sun was high and warming up the streets. We found a small bar, tucked away and somewhat quiet, with only a few tables occupied by older men talking quietly. There was a noticeable shift in energy here compared to Iberia, where café conversations tend to be lively and louder. We ordered beers and took in our surroundings. This was clearly a finance hub—the buildings looming in the distance and the quiet professionalism all around were far from the easygoing vibe we’d left behind in Porto. Conversations were subdued, and people seemed more private, absorbed in their own worlds. It was a distinct cultural change from the vibrant, bustling energy we were used to, yet Luxembourg’s calm had its own appeal.

Notably Luxembourg’s soundscape is marked more by what you don’t hear than by what you do. It’s a place where the sounds blend into a soft, unobtrusive background rather than competing for attention. Unlike the lively bustle of southern European cities, where laughter, voices, and street performers fill the air, Luxembourg’s atmosphere is gentler, shaped by subtleties. It definitely felt more like home as we edged further north.  

Later, as the day turned toward evening, we headed out of the city to Petange and Niederkorn, where we were staying with Laura’s friend. Their family home was a beautiful structure, built in a style that immediately felt familiar, like the Swiss homes my (Ben) relatives live in, with sturdy wooden beams, warm, inviting rooms, and neatly kept gardens. The colors around us were earthy, with tones of dark wood and green from the plants all around. The smell of the countryside mixed with the lingering warmth of the day made it feel welcoming. Luxembourg’s countryside is known for its rich natural beauty, and this small, charming home nestled within it felt like the perfect spot to stay.

The next morning, we woke up to a bright and clear day. Stepping outside, we found figs ripe for the picking on a tree in the yard, and the morning air was crisp and slightly sweet. The fig tree’s branches swayed gently in the breeze, and we felt lucky to be here. After breakfast, we set out for Le Titelberg, an ancient Roman site near the town, surrounded by fields of wheat. Walking among the ruins, we were struck by the juxtaposition of the crumbling stone walls against the soft green hills and open skies. The wind picked up as we walked along, rustling through the wheat and creating a subtle background symphony that gave the place a sense of timelessness.

Just before our departure, Laura’s friend Rob shared with us some of his thoughts on life in Luxembourg, especially as a resident without citizenship. He told us how obtaining Luxembourg citizenship can be challenging and that many residents, even those with deep roots in the country, face difficulties in navigating the complex rules. His reflections added depth to our experience here, highlighting how Luxembourg’s multicultural identity is a strength, though not without its political complexities.

As we boarded the bus to Brussels, we thought about the kindness we’d encountered throughout our short stay. The free public transport, the family welcoming us into their home, and the open countryside had left us with a sense of calm and appreciation for Luxembourg’s quiet beauty. It’s a place where history and modernity meet, where cultures converge yet keep their unique identities, and where even a brief visit offers rich experiences. The bus rumbled along as we watched the green fields fade into the distance, and with them, the memories of a city as charming as it is reserved.

The beguinage of Antwerp felt most like an oasis

Of all beguinages I visited the beguinage of Antwerp felt most like an oasis: In the middle of this beguinage there is a little park with a big meadow, many old trees and many statues of saints. The park is surrounded by a hedge and has a gate as an entrance. I really enjoyed walking through the park because of the old, green trees, the warm sun shining on my face and the twittering of the birds.

A sign at the entrance to the park explains that it is “a retreat for silence, meditation and prayer”. So each visitor should “respect this atmosphere of calm”. Another sign draws attention to the rule that visitors are requested not to be loud. In fact, there were many people sitting on benches or lying on the grass just to relax and enjoy the sun.

The park is surrounded by the old houses of the beguines. All houses have a wall with a door in front – so that the beguines could probably feel safer. That means: To get inside there are both the door of the wall and the door of the house to enter.

The whole beguinage as itself is also surrounded by an additional wall with a gate. So the importance of the security aspect was very perceptible.

In the church of the beguinage there are 14 pictures showing the 14 stations of Jesus’ Way of the Cross. Besides, there are many holy figures. The strong religiosity of the beguines I could see at the doors in the of their houses also: On nearly each door there is the name of a saint (female and male saints). For example I saw the names St. Ignatius, St. Rosalia, St. Franciscus, St. Martha, St. Josef, St. Ludovicus, St. Mattheus, St. Gudula, St. Johanna, St. Lucas, St. Magdalena, St. Anna and many, many more.

The beguinage has still inhabitants: A sign at the entrance makes clear that male persons are requested not to visit the inhabitants after 6 pm. For me, this rule was a bit surprising because I couldn’t imagine that male persons are still “not that welcome” in this (historic) place. But this rule is an example that original understandings are still practiced and still alive.

So very characteristic for the beguinage were the big surrounding wall, the walls in front of the houses, the names of saints on the doors, the green park in the middle and the church.

To sum up I’d like to say that this beguinage with its little park, its old trees and its twittering of birds was so idyllic that I instantly knew that it will be one of my favourite ones although it was the first beguinage I had ever seen at that time.

Part II: Exploring Medieval Visby

After the lively and busy atmosphere of Stockholm, arriving in Visby felt so spacious and fresh. Located on Gotland Island, Visby is one of Northern Europe’s best-preserved medieval towns and a UNESCO World Heritage site. With its ancient stone walls, narrow cobblestone streets, and centuries-old ruins, Visby’s medieval charm was apparent the moment I arrived.

The Historic City Wall and Gates

One of the first things that caught my attention was Visby’s 13th-century stone wall, which wraps around the old town. This impressive fortification, stretching for nearly 3.5 kilometers, includes over 40 towers and several gates. The wall has survived remarkably well over the centuries, serving as a testament to Visby’s strategic importance during the medieval period. Walking along the wall, I could imagine the city as it was back then—an important hub for trade in the Baltic Sea, bustling with merchants and travelers.

 

St. Mary’s Cathedral and Medieval Churches

Visby is home to many medieval ruins and churches that add to its historical charm. St. Mary’s Cathedral (Sankta Maria Domkyrka) is the only one of the town’s original churches still in use. Built in the 12th century, it has undergone multiple restorations but still retains its medieval essence. Stepping inside, I was struck by the architecture and the quiet, reverent atmosphere.

The town is also dotted with the ruins of other medieval churches, including St. Nicolai and St. Karin, which are now open-air structures. These hauntingly beautiful ruins have become venues for concerts and cultural events, blending history with the modern life of Visby. Each ruin offers a unique glimpse into Visby’s past, with stone arches, Gothic windows, and overgrown ivy creating an atmosphere of timelessness.

Exploring Visby’s Streets and Market Square

Walking through the cobblestone streets of Visby’s old town was a highlight of my visit. The city has retained much of its medieval layout, with winding alleys lined with traditional wooden houses and rose-covered facades. The Market Square (Stora Torget), located at the center of town, was once a bustling hub for trade and is now filled with cafes, boutiques, and small artisan shops. Even with the modern touches, there’s a sense that the town square hasn’t changed much over the centuries.

A Slower Pace and Natural Beauty

Unlike Stockholm’s bustling streets, Visby’s atmosphere was calm and relaxed, offering a slower pace that felt refreshing. Beyond its historical charm, the town is surrounded by natural beauty, from the coastal cliffs to the nearby beaches. One of the most memorable moments was watching the sunset over the Baltic Sea from the hill by the town wall. The views were incredible, with the sea stretching out in every direction and the ancient walls casting long shadows over the landscape.

Reflecting on the Journey

Visby was the perfect counterpart to Stockholm, offering a quieter, more reflective experience of Swedish history. Wandering its medieval streets, surrounded by historic buildings and nature, allowed me to connect with the essence of Sweden’s cultural heritage in a profound way. The trip to Visby was more than just a stop on my journey—it was an invitation to slow down, appreciate the passage of time, and feel the history of this remarkable place.

 

Balancing Heritage with Modern Development in Visby

During my visit to Visby, I had the pleasure of meeting Louise Hoffman Borgö, the World Heritage Coordinator at Region Gotland. Louise’s role focuses on the complex challenges of managing a UNESCO World Heritage site that must preserve its medieval charm while also supporting the needs of a modern city.

In our conversation, Louise shared insights on the unique challenge Visby faces: developing a modern, development-and-innovation-oriented city within the historical framework of a medieval fortress. She explained how their work involves not only safeguarding the castle walls and heritage sites but also integrating infrastructure that serves the community and enhances urban life without disrupting the historical landscape. This requires a careful balance between heritage conservation and implementing solutions that support development and technological advancement.

Hearing Louise’s perspective made me consider new aspects of the work that is required to maintain Visby’s historical integrity while embracing the possibilities of the future. Her work reflects the delicate balance between preserving the past and innovating for the future, making Visby a fascinating example of living heritage.

 

Exploring Sweden: Stockholm and Visby

Part I: Gamla Stan is Stockholm

My last destination was Sweden, where I ended up exploring  Stockholm and Visby, two cities with rich history and unique charm.

My stops in Sweden transfused totally different qualities to my trip. Traveling from the vibrant capital of Stockholm to the tranquil medieval town of Visby. It was like a journey between two very different worlds. Over my stay of six days, I enjoyed both the urban energy and the calmness of Gotland, each place offering its own unique glimpse into Sweden’s culture and history.

Stockholm: Endless walks and heritage reflections

In Stockholm,  due to my limited time I didn’t end up visiting any museums, but I made the most of my time by taking long walks around the city. Gamla Stan, the city’s historic old town, was certainly a highlight. In fact, Gamla Stan is one ove the most visited districts of the Swedish capital. The fantastic atmosphere is an experience in itself when you stroll through the narrow, cobbled streets and alleys. Even though it’s known for its touristy vibe, I tried to unravel its authentic corners and fascinating historical spots.

Finding Authenticity Amidst the Crowds: Exploring Gamla Stan in Stockholm

During my trip to Stockholm, Gamla Stan, the historic old town, was high on my list. Known for its medieval architecture, narrow cobblestone streets, and vibrant atmosphere, it’s easy to see why it’s such a draw for tourists. The area was buzzing with people, and at times it felt almost too crowded, with souvenir shops and cafés catering to visitors at every turn.

Naviating the story of Gamla Stan

Over the centuries, Gamla Stan evolved in response to political shifts, economic tides, and urban development pressures. Its transformation from a strategic fortress and bustling trade hub to today’s cultural icon was marked by cycles of prosperity, decline, and preservation.

“In the 19th century, Gamla Stan became densely populated and impoverished, overshadowed by Stockholm’s expanding, modern districts. Public sentiment began to view it as a relic that tarnished the image of a modern capital. Demolition plans surfaced, as city officials debated razing old structures to make way for new developments. Fortunately, high costs and the prioritization of building other city areas left Gamla Stan intact. By the mid-20th century, its historical and architectural value was finally recognized, and a growing preservation movement sought to protect its unique character”. Restoration projects flourished, and the city classified Gamla Stan as culturally valuable, ensuring careful oversight of any modifications.

Today, Gamla Stan stands as one of Stockholm’s prime attractions, drawing tourists from across the globe who wander its narrow, cobblestone streets and marvel at the well-preserved medieval architecture. Visitors experience a glimpse of medieval Europe, from the Royal Palace to Stortorget Square and Sweden’s narrowest alley, Mårten Trotzigs Gränd. This is why it wouldn’t be an overstatement to call Gamla Stan a “living museum”,  even though it certsinly reciprocates visitors’ expectations for shops, cafés, and restaurants housed in old buildings, creating an inviting atmosphere.

Its enduring appeal lies not only in the heritage buildings and cobbled lanes but also in the tangible connection it provides to the city’s origins, captivating visitors who come to explore its past and immerse themselves in its present.

 

touristy vibe in Gamla Stan

But beyond the busy main streets, I delved into the mission to uncover the authentic essence of Gamla Stan. I wandered off the more tourist-filled paths and discovered hidden corners that manage to hold an authentic atmosphere without this commercial aspect. Indicatively, even when stumbling upon Mårten Trotzigs Gränd, Sweden’s narrowest street, I had a sense of traveling back to time, even though I was still at the heart of Stockholm.

 

One of the most memorable moments was meeting an art conservator who volunteers in the German Church and we exchanged our  perspective on the efforts to preserve Gamla Stan’s heritage. Through our conversation, I found myself reflecting on the value of finding and safeguarding the balance between maintaining authenticity and accommodating touristic services. This added layer of insight helped me see beyond the touristy surface and connect with Gamla Stan’s true historical spirit.

 

 

Exploring Stockholm: Beyond Gamla Stan

During my time in Stockholm, I spent hours exploring the city on foot. While Gamla Stan was a highlight with its rich history and character, there were so many other fascinating areas that added to my experience of this vibrant city.

A Visit to the Royal Library (Kungliga biblioteket)

One of my favorite stops was the Kungliga biblioteket, where i enjoyed some break from my full day city, sipping good coffee (anyway as it is known, Sweden runs on coffee) and working in one of the huge studyspaces. The impressive building with its neoclassical architecture and tranquil surroundings is located within the lush Humlegården park, serving as a quiet retreat from the city’s busier streets.

Östermalm Market Hall: A Foodie’s Paradise

Stockholm’s Östermalm Market Hall (Östermalms Saluhall) was another gem. Known for its selection of fresh foods and local specialties, it was the perfect place to experience Swedish cuisine. The hall’s historic interior, with wood-paneled stalls and vibrant displays, made browsing a real treat. It was great to sample Swedish delicacies here and get a feel for Stockholm’s culinary culture.

 

Djurgården Island: Museums, Parks, and Views

A day in Djurgården—Stockholm’s island of museums—was also a highlight. Although I didn’t have time to visit each one, Djurgården is home to some of Stockholm’s best museums, like the Vasa Museum and the ABBA Museum. The island’s natural beauty, with scenic parks and waterfront views, made for a peaceful walk. This blend of nature and culture is one of Stockholm’s most unique features and makes Djurgården a must-visit spot.

Capturing Stockholm’s Essence

From Gamla Stan’s narrow alleys to the quiet grandeur of the Royal Library, the culinary richness of Östermalm Market, and the cultural vibe of Djurgården, each walk brought a new layer to my view of Stockholm.  THese explorations made me feel the charm of Stockholm lying in its seamless blend of history, modernity, and nature. The cityscape is a stunning mix of historic architecture and contemporary design, with impressive facades, elegant spires, and sleek, modern buildings all reflecting off the water. Parks, waterfront promenades, and nearby islands bring nature into the heart of the city, making it easy to escape the urban buzz without ever leaving Stockholm. Whether wandering through the cobblestone alleys of Gamla Stan or strolling along the scenic shores of Djurgården, I was captivated by Stockholm’s unique balance of urban life, architectural beauty, and natural serenity.

Source: https://www.smart-guide.org/destinations/en/stockholm/

porto – port wine and narrow houses

all images shown here were taken analog with my canon ae I

porto, the second-largest city in portugal, is located on the northwest coast of the country and is known for its historic old town as well as its significance in port wine production. the old town, ribeira, was declared a unesco world heritage site in 1996 and is characterized by narrow streets, colorful and narrow houses, and important architectural landmarks. the city has played a central role in the history of port wine, which has been produced here since the 17th century. the wine cellars are mainly located in vila nova de gaia, a suburb of porto on the other side of the douro river.

the narrow houses

the narrow houses I

 

the narrow houses in porto have their origins in historical and economic factors that date back centuries. a key reason for their design was the property tax, which in the middle ages and early modern period was often levied based on the width of the building’s facade. to minimize these taxes, many homeowners opted to build narrow houses that took up little space on the street but often extended deep into the lot. this allowed them to reduce their tax burden without sacrificing living space.

 

the narrow houses II
the narrow houses III

 

in addition, the city’s topography played an important role. porto is built on hills and along the steep banks of the douro river, which further limited the available building space. the narrow, winding streets and alleys of the old town forced residents to build their homes vertically to make the most of the limited space.

 

the narrow houses IV

 

moreover, this architectural style maximized street access, which was crucial for urban commerce. many of these narrow houses had shops or workshops on the ground floor, while the upper floors were used as living quarters. this functional layout promoted urban life and brought work and living spaces closer together.

overall, the architecture of porto’s narrow houses is a combination of tax policies, geographical constraints, and economic factors that evolved over centuries and continues to define the city’s distinctive urban landscape.

 

the narrow houses V

 

port wine

port wine, a globally renowned and appreciated fortified wine, is closely tied to the city of porto and the surrounding region. the name “port wine” derives directly from porto, although the grapes used to make it are primarily grown in the douro valley, one of the world’s oldest wine regions. the unique location of the douro valley, with its steep slopes and specific microclimate, provides ideal conditions for viticulture. after the harvest, the grapes are processed into wine in the valley and then transported to porto or to vila nova de gaia, located across the douro river from porto.

 

port wine view

 

since the 17th century, the city of porto has played a key role in the export of port wine, especially to britain, which contributed significantly to the international spread of this wine. a crucial step in port wine production is the addition of brandy to stop the fermentation process early. this results in a higher sugar content, giving the wine its characteristic sweetness and higher alcohol content.

historically, port wine merchants stored their barrels in the cooler cellars of vila nova de gaia, where the wine could age. even today, many of the most famous port wine cellars are located there, offering guided tours and tastings.

 

port wine all the way

 

to be continued…

arrival in porto – the orange sun

all images shown here were taken analog with my canon ae I

here, i am starting the travel blog for my owhc journey. over the coming weeks, you’ll find regular entries here about the different stops along the way.

my journey began on 17/09/2024 in porto. on the way there, everything seemed just fine: bright sunshine and a beautiful view.

on my way to porto

 

when my sister, who was flying to lisbon at the same time, messaged me on whatsapp to ask if there were any fires nearby, i replied with, “i only see blue skies here :)”. little did i know what the next two days had in store for me. the closer i got to porto, the more dark clouds i could see gathering on the horizon.

 

dark horizon

 

soon, i was surrounded by thick smoke that didn’t clear by the time i arrived. the whole city was bathed in a diffuse, mystical orange light. it felt like sunset at every time of day. the smell of burnt wood lingered over porto, and ashes fell from the sky. google maps showed that the fires had reached the outskirts of the city. some areas had to be evacuated, and temporary road closures were in place. travelers were advised to check the current situation before arriving to prepare for any restrictions. authorities and emergency responders worked tirelessly to control the fires, and tourists were urged to exercise caution in forested areas and to follow official instructions.

 

smoke everywhere

 

on the first day, i let the city life carry me along – without any particular destination in mind. in the city, it was hard to tell that, just five kilometers away, others were fighting for their lives and livelihoods.

nice to see how the orange sun sneaked into every photo.

 

the orange sun I

 

the orange sun II

 

the orange sun III

 

to be continued…

 

Turku- Rauma: The Paris of Finland

After my visit at Turku, I totally agree with the quote that parallels the city as the “Paris of Finland”.  It is indeed a city rich in history, culture, and a lively urban atmosphere.

As Finland’s oldest city and former capital, it bears a unique blend of tradition and modernity, much like Paris itself.

Turku gives the feeling of a cultural hub, hosting numerous festivals, art events, and theater performances throughout the year, similar to Paris’s dynamic arts scene. Also, the city is filled with an eclectic mix of historic and modern buildings that reflect its historic importance as a cultural and commercial center. Walking through Turku is a stroll through diverse architectural styles offering a glimpse into different eras of the city’s development.

Flying from Bergen to Turku  11/10 18.00

 

Panimoravintola Koulu- Brewery in Turku 12/10 19.00

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The buildings…

   

Sunsets in Aura

 

 

Mikaelinkirkko

   

The favourite spot…

      

 

The cute cafés…