After the lively and busy atmosphere of Stockholm, arriving in Visby felt so spacious and fresh. Located on Gotland Island, Visby is one of Northern Europe’s best-preserved medieval towns and a UNESCO World Heritage site. With its ancient stone walls, narrow cobblestone streets, and centuries-old ruins, Visby’s medieval charm was apparent the moment I arrived.

The Historic City Wall and Gates

One of the first things that caught my attention was Visby’s 13th-century stone wall, which wraps around the old town. This impressive fortification, stretching for nearly 3.5 kilometers, includes over 40 towers and several gates. The wall has survived remarkably well over the centuries, serving as a testament to Visby’s strategic importance during the medieval period. Walking along the wall, I could imagine the city as it was back then—an important hub for trade in the Baltic Sea, bustling with merchants and travelers.

 

St. Mary’s Cathedral and Medieval Churches

Visby is home to many medieval ruins and churches that add to its historical charm. St. Mary’s Cathedral (Sankta Maria Domkyrka) is the only one of the town’s original churches still in use. Built in the 12th century, it has undergone multiple restorations but still retains its medieval essence. Stepping inside, I was struck by the architecture and the quiet, reverent atmosphere.

The town is also dotted with the ruins of other medieval churches, including St. Nicolai and St. Karin, which are now open-air structures. These hauntingly beautiful ruins have become venues for concerts and cultural events, blending history with the modern life of Visby. Each ruin offers a unique glimpse into Visby’s past, with stone arches, Gothic windows, and overgrown ivy creating an atmosphere of timelessness.

Exploring Visby’s Streets and Market Square

Walking through the cobblestone streets of Visby’s old town was a highlight of my visit. The city has retained much of its medieval layout, with winding alleys lined with traditional wooden houses and rose-covered facades. The Market Square (Stora Torget), located at the center of town, was once a bustling hub for trade and is now filled with cafes, boutiques, and small artisan shops. Even with the modern touches, there’s a sense that the town square hasn’t changed much over the centuries.

A Slower Pace and Natural Beauty

Unlike Stockholm’s bustling streets, Visby’s atmosphere was calm and relaxed, offering a slower pace that felt refreshing. Beyond its historical charm, the town is surrounded by natural beauty, from the coastal cliffs to the nearby beaches. One of the most memorable moments was watching the sunset over the Baltic Sea from the hill by the town wall. The views were incredible, with the sea stretching out in every direction and the ancient walls casting long shadows over the landscape.

Reflecting on the Journey

Visby was the perfect counterpart to Stockholm, offering a quieter, more reflective experience of Swedish history. Wandering its medieval streets, surrounded by historic buildings and nature, allowed me to connect with the essence of Sweden’s cultural heritage in a profound way. The trip to Visby was more than just a stop on my journey—it was an invitation to slow down, appreciate the passage of time, and feel the history of this remarkable place.

 

Balancing Heritage with Modern Development in Visby

During my visit to Visby, I had the pleasure of meeting Louise Hoffman Borgö, the World Heritage Coordinator at Region Gotland. Louise’s role focuses on the complex challenges of managing a UNESCO World Heritage site that must preserve its medieval charm while also supporting the needs of a modern city.

In our conversation, Louise shared insights on the unique challenge Visby faces: developing a modern, development-and-innovation-oriented city within the historical framework of a medieval fortress. She explained how their work involves not only safeguarding the castle walls and heritage sites but also integrating infrastructure that serves the community and enhances urban life without disrupting the historical landscape. This requires a careful balance between heritage conservation and implementing solutions that support development and technological advancement.

Hearing Louise’s perspective made me consider new aspects of the work that is required to maintain Visby’s historical integrity while embracing the possibilities of the future. Her work reflects the delicate balance between preserving the past and innovating for the future, making Visby a fascinating example of living heritage.

 

Part I: Gamla Stan is Stockholm

My last destination was Sweden, where I ended up exploring  Stockholm and Visby, two cities with rich history and unique charm.

My stops in Sweden transfused totally different qualities to my trip. Traveling from the vibrant capital of Stockholm to the tranquil medieval town of Visby. It was like a journey between two very different worlds. Over my stay of six days, I enjoyed both the urban energy and the calmness of Gotland, each place offering its own unique glimpse into Sweden’s culture and history.

Stockholm: Endless walks and heritage reflections

In Stockholm,  due to my limited time I didn’t end up visiting any museums, but I made the most of my time by taking long walks around the city. Gamla Stan, the city’s historic old town, was certainly a highlight. In fact, Gamla Stan is one ove the most visited districts of the Swedish capital. The fantastic atmosphere is an experience in itself when you stroll through the narrow, cobbled streets and alleys. Even though it’s known for its touristy vibe, I tried to unravel its authentic corners and fascinating historical spots.

Finding Authenticity Amidst the Crowds: Exploring Gamla Stan in Stockholm

During my trip to Stockholm, Gamla Stan, the historic old town, was high on my list. Known for its medieval architecture, narrow cobblestone streets, and vibrant atmosphere, it’s easy to see why it’s such a draw for tourists. The area was buzzing with people, and at times it felt almost too crowded, with souvenir shops and cafés catering to visitors at every turn.

Naviating the story of Gamla Stan

Over the centuries, Gamla Stan evolved in response to political shifts, economic tides, and urban development pressures. Its transformation from a strategic fortress and bustling trade hub to today’s cultural icon was marked by cycles of prosperity, decline, and preservation.

“In the 19th century, Gamla Stan became densely populated and impoverished, overshadowed by Stockholm’s expanding, modern districts. Public sentiment began to view it as a relic that tarnished the image of a modern capital. Demolition plans surfaced, as city officials debated razing old structures to make way for new developments. Fortunately, high costs and the prioritization of building other city areas left Gamla Stan intact. By the mid-20th century, its historical and architectural value was finally recognized, and a growing preservation movement sought to protect its unique character”. Restoration projects flourished, and the city classified Gamla Stan as culturally valuable, ensuring careful oversight of any modifications.

Today, Gamla Stan stands as one of Stockholm’s prime attractions, drawing tourists from across the globe who wander its narrow, cobblestone streets and marvel at the well-preserved medieval architecture. Visitors experience a glimpse of medieval Europe, from the Royal Palace to Stortorget Square and Sweden’s narrowest alley, Mårten Trotzigs Gränd. This is why it wouldn’t be an overstatement to call Gamla Stan a “living museum”,  even though it certsinly reciprocates visitors’ expectations for shops, cafés, and restaurants housed in old buildings, creating an inviting atmosphere.

Its enduring appeal lies not only in the heritage buildings and cobbled lanes but also in the tangible connection it provides to the city’s origins, captivating visitors who come to explore its past and immerse themselves in its present.

 

But beyond the busy main streets, I delved into the mission to uncover the authentic essence of Gamla Stan. I wandered off the more tourist-filled paths and discovered hidden corners that manage to hold an authentic atmosphere without this commercial aspect. Indicatively, even when stumbling upon Mårten Trotzigs Gränd, Sweden’s narrowest street, I had a sense of traveling back to time, even though I was still at the heart of Stockholm.

 

One of the most memorable moments was meeting an art conservator who volunteers in the German Church and we exchanged our  perspective on the efforts to preserve Gamla Stan’s heritage. Through our conversation, I found myself reflecting on the value of finding and safeguarding the balance between maintaining authenticity and accommodating touristic services. This added layer of insight helped me see beyond the touristy surface and connect with Gamla Stan’s true historical spirit.

 

 

Exploring Stockholm: Beyond Gamla Stan

During my time in Stockholm, I spent hours exploring the city on foot. While Gamla Stan was a highlight with its rich history and character, there were so many other fascinating areas that added to my experience of this vibrant city.

A Visit to the Royal Library (Kungliga biblioteket)

One of my favorite stops was the Kungliga biblioteket, where i enjoyed some break from my full day city, sipping good coffee (anyway as it is known, Sweden runs on coffee) and working in one of the huge studyspaces. The impressive building with its neoclassical architecture and tranquil surroundings is located within the lush Humlegården park, serving as a quiet retreat from the city’s busier streets.

Östermalm Market Hall: A Foodie’s Paradise

Stockholm’s Östermalm Market Hall (Östermalms Saluhall) was another gem. Known for its selection of fresh foods and local specialties, it was the perfect place to experience Swedish cuisine. The hall’s historic interior, with wood-paneled stalls and vibrant displays, made browsing a real treat. It was great to sample Swedish delicacies here and get a feel for Stockholm’s culinary culture.

 

Djurgården Island: Museums, Parks, and Views

A day in Djurgården—Stockholm’s island of museums—was also a highlight. Although I didn’t have time to visit each one, Djurgården is home to some of Stockholm’s best museums, like the Vasa Museum and the ABBA Museum. The island’s natural beauty, with scenic parks and waterfront views, made for a peaceful walk. This blend of nature and culture is one of Stockholm’s most unique features and makes Djurgården a must-visit spot.

Capturing Stockholm’s Essence

From Gamla Stan’s narrow alleys to the quiet grandeur of the Royal Library, the culinary richness of Östermalm Market, and the cultural vibe of Djurgården, each walk brought a new layer to my view of Stockholm.  THese explorations made me feel the charm of Stockholm lying in its seamless blend of history, modernity, and nature. The cityscape is a stunning mix of historic architecture and contemporary design, with impressive facades, elegant spires, and sleek, modern buildings all reflecting off the water. Parks, waterfront promenades, and nearby islands bring nature into the heart of the city, making it easy to escape the urban buzz without ever leaving Stockholm. Whether wandering through the cobblestone alleys of Gamla Stan or strolling along the scenic shores of Djurgården, I was captivated by Stockholm’s unique balance of urban life, architectural beauty, and natural serenity.

Source: https://www.smart-guide.org/destinations/en/stockholm/

The cruise lasted 4 hours, starting at 10:30 and returning to Bergen’s city center at 14:30. The cruise through the Norwegian fjords was an unforgettable journey, one that started in the charming coastal city of Bergen and took me all the way to the tranquil Mo village, nestled deep in the heart of the fjords. This trip gave me a front-row seat to the natural wonders that have made Norway famous—a blend of rugged mountains, serene waters, and picturesque villages that seem frozen in time. Along the way, I met a few fellow travelers, which made the experience even more enjoyable as we took in the incredible views of the fjords

 

The Departure: Bergen’s Coastal Beauty

The starting point of the cruise was at the heart of Bergen city. Certainly, Bergen’s rich history and maritime culture made it ideal for this route. As we set sail, the iconic Bryggen Wharf slowly disappeared behind us, and we glided into the open waters of the fjords. The interplay between the cityscape and the surrounding mountains is not only visually striking but also emblematic of the city’s identity.

Into the Fjords: Nature at Its Best

As we cruised deeper into the fjords, the scenery became breathtaking. Sheer rock faces loomed over us, plunging straight down into the dark, pristine waters. Waterfalls cascaded down from great heights, their waters glistening in the sunlight before vanishing into the fjord below. Each turn brought something new—whether it was a hidden cove or a small village tucked away at the base of the mountains.

Mo Island

Mo Island is a small and remote island located in the fjord region of Norway. It’s known for its rugged landscapes, steep cliffs, and proximity to the fjords. The island is relatively quiet, offering a glimpse of traditional Norwegian life and the natural surroundings typical of the region. It’s a stop for cruises, allowing visitors to experience the area’s dramatic scenery up close.

 

Monstraumen Waterfall

Bergen’s geography and landscapes are scenic views and I consider them  integral to the city’s cultural heritage. For me, fully experiencing this nature was key to understanding Bergen’s city’s culture. The city and the character of Bergen, much like its landscapes, is dynamic, evolving, and deeply intertwined with the natural world that cradles it.

Bergen, Norway’s second-largest city, is not only renowned for its cultural scene but also for how its geography and natural landscapes have shaped its history and identity. That’s why, during my visit, I made it my mission to explore as much of Bergen’s natural beauty as possible.

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The Fjords and Maritime Heritage

Bergen’s location at the gateway to some of Norway’s most famous fjords, like Sognefjord and Hardangerfjord, makes the sea a central part of the city’s identity. As I strolled through the  city center, with the Hanseatic wharf of Bryggen towering above me, I could spot that the sea has always been Bergen’s lifeline and identify its role as a major trading port during the days of the Hanseatic League can be identified today in Bryggen’s historic wooden buildings. The city’s economy, culture, and everyday life have long been connected to the fjords and the vast ocean beyond.

Mountains and Outdoor Culture

After a day of exploring, I was drawn toward Mount Fløyen. I initially took the funicular, but in true Bergen fashion, but then I also opted to hike up the mountains instead. Bergen’s seven mountains, particularly Fløyen and Ulriken, form a natural embrace around the city, and as I climbed, I could see how the mountains are not just a scenic backdrop, but deeply embedded in the city’s outdoor culture.

Bergen’s love for the outdoors became apparent as I passed locals and tourists alike, all drawn to the mountains for hiking, cycling, and a breath of fresh air. The view from the top of Fløyen, overlooking the city, fjords, and forests, was breathtaking, and I could see why these trails have been a part of Bergen’s culture for generations. The mountains not only offer physical escape but also emotional connection to the natural world—something that’s been preserved as part of the city’s cultural identity. And that’s exactly why I focused on seeing as much of this natural beauty as possible during my stay. Each walk revealed another layer of Bergen’s relationship with its landscape.

       

Hestekum (Trough for Horses)

The sign explains that this trough was originally built for horses by the Bergen Forestry and Tree Planting Society in the year 1890. At the time, roads were steep and horse-drawn carriages needed water stops along the way. This particular trough was placed in the Fløen area, which lies along one of the most traveled routes for horse carriages between Bergen and Fløien.

“This simple piece of history sheds light on how vital horses were to daily life and transportation in Bergen’s past, before cars took over. As part of a network of horse stops, this trough is a small but significant remnant of a time when horses played a central role in how people moved through”. It’s interesting to see how the practical needs of the past are memorialized along hiking paths today, blending the city’s historical and natural heritage.

 

 

 

 

 

 

The Views…

      

 

My highest point…

 

 

 

 

 

 

Kickstarting

The trip started with an already long flight from Aarhus, Denmark (where I am based at)  to Bergen with layover in Gdansk. This first trip turned into an adventure, when due to flight dealys, I missed my connecting flight to Bergen.

As a result, I spent the first out of the 14-days-trip exploring the lounges of the airports in Aarhus and Gdansk.

After a long and tiring night in the bustling Polish city, I finally boarded a plane to Bergen the next morning.

 

Since the plane landed, it was already apparent that the landscapes and the nature  looked absolutely stunning. Once I checked into my hotel and dropped off my luggage, I set out to explore Bergen’s city center.

The Scandinavian architecture in combination with the breathtaking natural scenery seemed captivating, and the vibrant atmosphere was infectious. Each street I wandered seemed to tell a story, echoing the secrets of the city.

After dinner*, I found myself exploring the hill and I headed towards the funicular where I ended up spending my entire evening walking/ hiking (the difference is blurry here). The ascent was invigorating, and the panoramic views of Bergen saved the day and paid me off the sleep deprivation and the tireness of the long waiting times at the airport.

 

   

 

 

 

 

 

 

In fact,  and I felt more and more curious about the nature and its role to the history and the city personality of Bergen.