regensburg – short break home

all images shown here were taken analog with my canon ae I

after my stop in porto, something truly special was on the agenda: a quick detour home. but not to rest – instead, to discover my adopted hometown from a completely new perspective. it’s shocking how little you actually know about your own city, even after living there for over five years. it was time to change that. unfortunately, the first two days didn’t go as planned. i spent them sick in bed.

 

neupfarrplatz

 

imagine a city that feels like a living history book, its pages filled with medieval alleys, historic buildings, and a hint of mediterranean flair. welcome to regensburg, a jewel on the danube. here, history is tangible. the old town is a labyrinth of cobblestone streets, charming squares, and colorful facades that tell tales of emperors, merchants, and artists.

 

view from the stone bridge I

 

the highlight? without a doubt, the “steinerne brücke” (stone bridge), a masterpiece of medieval engineering that leads you straight to the heart of the city while offering the best views of the danube.

 

stone bridge

 

built between 1135 and 1146, the stone bridge was considered a technical marvel of its time. for over 800 years, it remained the only permanent bridge across the danube and played a vital role in european trade and transportation. its 16 limestone arches have withstood centuries of wind, weather, and floods – a true symbol of resilience that still inspires awe today.

 

danube I

 

danube II

 

crossing the bridge is immediately rewarding: the view of regensburg’s old town from here is simply breathtaking. to the left stands the mighty dom st. peter, and to the right, the historic city skyline unfolds in all its glory.

 

view from the stone bridge II

 

view from the stone bridge III

 

view from the stone bridge IV

 

even from afar, the two nearly 105-meter-tall towers of the cathedral dominate the cityscape, guiding visitors into the old town. construction began in the 13th century, and the cathedral is a prime example of high gothic architecture: intricate details, dramatic proportions, and a mesmerizing interplay of light and shadow. interestingly, the towers were only completed in the 19th century in neo-gothic style, a fascinating chapter in the cathedral’s long and eventful history.

the cathedral’s interior is equally stunning. the colorful stained-glass windows from the 13th to 16th centuries are a highlight, casting shimmering patterns of light across the nave when the sun shines. the exquisitely crafted high choir, with its main altar and gothic crucifixion group, commands attention. in the cathedral treasury, you’ll find remarkable liturgical treasures, relics, and vestments – a captivating glimpse into regensburg’s ecclesiastical tradition.

 

bruckmandl

 

according to legend, the stone bridge and regensburg cathedral were under construction at the same time. the two master builders were rivals, competing to see who could finish their project first. desperate to complete the bridge quickly, the bridge builder struck a deal with the devil, promising the first three souls to cross the completed bridge in exchange for supernatural help.

thanks to this unholy bargain, the stone bridge was indeed finished first. but the clever bridge builder tricked the devil by sending a dog, a cat, and a rooster across the bridge instead of humans. enraged at the deception, the devil is said to have leapt into the danube, creating the rapids still visible beneath the bridge today.

at the highest point of the bridge, you’ll find a small stone statue known as the bruckmandl. according to legend, it represents the bridge builder gazing toward the cathedral – either proudly admiring his work or melancholically reflecting on the cunning trick he had to use to win. historically, the bruckmandl was added in the 16th century and likely has symbolic significance, but the legend has made it an inseparable part of the bridge’s story.

to be continued…

porto – modern architecture

all images shown here were taken analog with my canon ae I

on my last day in porto, i had something special planned: modern architecture. during my studies, portuguese modern architecture is always a key topic—this was my chance to finally experience it up close. on the itinerary: the faculty of architecture by álvaro siza and the casa da música by rem koolhaas. both buildings left a lasting impression on me.

casa da música

casa da musica I

 

the casa da música in porto is a true magnet for anyone who loves modern architecture and culture. even from the outside, the building impresses with its unique form, standing like a giant, geometric monolith in the heart of porto—a creation of dutch star architect rem koolhaas.

 

casa da musica II

 

since 2005, this masterpiece has caught the eye, bringing an avant-garde flair to the historic city. the interior of the casa da música is as fascinating as its facade. visitors find spacious, light-filled rooms and bold architectural details that create an almost magical atmosphere. the main concert hall, the “sala suggia,” is renowned for its outstanding acoustics, letting music seem to float through the air—a memorable experience. from classical to jazz to experimental music, the casa da música offers a wide range of concerts, making it a lively destination for music lovers of all kinds.

 

casa da musica III

 

faculdade de arquitetura

the faculty of architecture in porto, or the “faculdade de arquitetura da universidade do porto,” is a gem of modern portuguese architecture that attracts enthusiasts from around the world. designed by álvaro siza, one of portugal’s most renowned architects and a pritzker prize winner, the building is considered a postwar architectural masterpiece. its design is a tribute to clean lines and the play of light and shadow, exemplifying how architecture can blend seamlessly into its natural surroundings. the faculty sits along the douro river, offering breathtaking views from almost every corner of the building—a constant inspiration for those who study or teach here.

 

faculdade de arquitetura I

 

the buildings are crafted in white concrete, which takes on a nearly magical quality in the portuguese sunlight, intensifying the interplay with the shadows cast by each structure. siza didn’t just create a campus here; he crafted a dynamic environment that encourages experimentation and reflection, which makes this place so special. the teaching approach is also highly regarded, as architecture is taught here not merely as a technical discipline, but as an art form that positively impacts people’s lives. for architecture fans, visiting the faculty is an absolute must. even simply wandering through the serene, geometrically arranged courtyards or gazing out the large windows onto the river gives one the feeling of being in a place that invites creativity and awe.

 

faculdade de arquitetura II

 

another element

that made porto so special for me: the street musicians.

music I

 

at any time of day or night, you could find street musicians on nearly every corner, adding a musical layer to the beautiful memories i have of porto. their melodies drifted through the streets, giving the city an extra touch of warmth and life, making each moment feel like part of a personal soundtrack that i’ll carry with me.

 

music II

 

to be continued…

porto – port wine and narrow houses

all images shown here were taken analog with my canon ae I

porto, the second-largest city in portugal, is located on the northwest coast of the country and is known for its historic old town as well as its significance in port wine production. the old town, ribeira, was declared a unesco world heritage site in 1996 and is characterized by narrow streets, colorful and narrow houses, and important architectural landmarks. the city has played a central role in the history of port wine, which has been produced here since the 17th century. the wine cellars are mainly located in vila nova de gaia, a suburb of porto on the other side of the douro river.

the narrow houses

the narrow houses I

 

the narrow houses in porto have their origins in historical and economic factors that date back centuries. a key reason for their design was the property tax, which in the middle ages and early modern period was often levied based on the width of the building’s facade. to minimize these taxes, many homeowners opted to build narrow houses that took up little space on the street but often extended deep into the lot. this allowed them to reduce their tax burden without sacrificing living space.

 

the narrow houses II
the narrow houses III

 

in addition, the city’s topography played an important role. porto is built on hills and along the steep banks of the douro river, which further limited the available building space. the narrow, winding streets and alleys of the old town forced residents to build their homes vertically to make the most of the limited space.

 

the narrow houses IV

 

moreover, this architectural style maximized street access, which was crucial for urban commerce. many of these narrow houses had shops or workshops on the ground floor, while the upper floors were used as living quarters. this functional layout promoted urban life and brought work and living spaces closer together.

overall, the architecture of porto’s narrow houses is a combination of tax policies, geographical constraints, and economic factors that evolved over centuries and continues to define the city’s distinctive urban landscape.

 

the narrow houses V

 

port wine

port wine, a globally renowned and appreciated fortified wine, is closely tied to the city of porto and the surrounding region. the name “port wine” derives directly from porto, although the grapes used to make it are primarily grown in the douro valley, one of the world’s oldest wine regions. the unique location of the douro valley, with its steep slopes and specific microclimate, provides ideal conditions for viticulture. after the harvest, the grapes are processed into wine in the valley and then transported to porto or to vila nova de gaia, located across the douro river from porto.

 

port wine view

 

since the 17th century, the city of porto has played a key role in the export of port wine, especially to britain, which contributed significantly to the international spread of this wine. a crucial step in port wine production is the addition of brandy to stop the fermentation process early. this results in a higher sugar content, giving the wine its characteristic sweetness and higher alcohol content.

historically, port wine merchants stored their barrels in the cooler cellars of vila nova de gaia, where the wine could age. even today, many of the most famous port wine cellars are located there, offering guided tours and tastings.

 

port wine all the way

 

to be continued…

arrival in porto – the orange sun

all images shown here were taken analog with my canon ae I

here, i am starting the travel blog for my owhc journey. over the coming weeks, you’ll find regular entries here about the different stops along the way.

my journey began on 17/09/2024 in porto. on the way there, everything seemed just fine: bright sunshine and a beautiful view.

on my way to porto

 

when my sister, who was flying to lisbon at the same time, messaged me on whatsapp to ask if there were any fires nearby, i replied with, “i only see blue skies here :)”. little did i know what the next two days had in store for me. the closer i got to porto, the more dark clouds i could see gathering on the horizon.

 

dark horizon

 

soon, i was surrounded by thick smoke that didn’t clear by the time i arrived. the whole city was bathed in a diffuse, mystical orange light. it felt like sunset at every time of day. the smell of burnt wood lingered over porto, and ashes fell from the sky. google maps showed that the fires had reached the outskirts of the city. some areas had to be evacuated, and temporary road closures were in place. travelers were advised to check the current situation before arriving to prepare for any restrictions. authorities and emergency responders worked tirelessly to control the fires, and tourists were urged to exercise caution in forested areas and to follow official instructions.

 

smoke everywhere

 

on the first day, i let the city life carry me along – without any particular destination in mind. in the city, it was hard to tell that, just five kilometers away, others were fighting for their lives and livelihoods.

nice to see how the orange sun sneaked into every photo.

 

the orange sun I

 

the orange sun II

 

the orange sun III

 

to be continued…